WE’VE all been there – you spray a perfume in a shop or smell it on a pal and fall in love instantly.
But when you buy it and get it home, it smells completely different on your skin or begins to give you a headache after a few hours.
It turns out this is a common experience – and there’s a science behind why it happens.
According to scent expert Esmé Gelder no two individuals share the same skin chemistry, which means fragrances behave differently
from person to person.
She said: “Factors such as your skin type, pH level and even your recent meals can influence how a scent unfolds.”
There are five main things that affects the way a perfume smells on different people. The first is body chemistry.
Esmé says “Your natural oils, hormone levels and perspiration impact how a perfume interacts and develops.”
Skin type also impacts scent. Oily skin tends to retain fragrance and amplify it, while dry skin often accelerates evaporation.
Diet and hydration can also have an effect so what you eat and how well-hydrated you are can subtly alter your scent profile.
Meanwhile, certain medications can shift your body chemistry enough to change how perfume behaves on your skin.
Finally, climate and environment have an impact.
Esmé said: “Temperature and humidity also influence how different
fragrance notes are released.
“So when a citrus-floral scent smells like a fresh breeze on your friend but turns unexpectedly sweet or heavy on you, it’s your chemistry influencing the transformation.”
The expert explained that perfume is composed of layered elements known as notes – top, middle, and base. When first applied, the top notes, usually light and bright, are most noticeable.
These quickly fade to reveal the heart – or middle notes – which are often floral or spicy. Finally the base notes, like musk or wood, linger the longest.
Esmé says: “Your skin chemistry affects how these transitions occur. For example, dry skin might cause the top notes to vanish more quickly, pushing the deeper base notes to the forefront sooner than
intended.”
The good news is you don’t have to give up on a scent that doesn’t wear perfectly right away. There are easy ways to help perfume perform better for your unique skin.
The expert explains: “Fragrance clings more effectively to hydrated skin. If your skin is dry, it acts like a sponge – absorbing the perfume and allowing it to evaporate quickly. Applying an unscented moisturiser or body oil first creates a base layer that helps lock in the scent and slow its fading.
“Instead of spraying randomly, focus on pulse points like the wrists, neck, inner elbows and even behind the knees. These warm spots help activate and project the scent.
“And for a pro tip – avoid rubbing your wrists together. It disturbs the top notes and can disrupt the natural progression of the fragrance.”
Another good tip is to layer complementary scents or using matching products, such as scented lotions, oils, and mists.
IT’S A MATCH
KNOWING your skin type can guide you toward scents that perform better and last longer:
For Oily Skin: Oily skin holds onto scent well, making it ideal for complex fragrances like woody, spicy, or oriental compositions that evolve richly over time.
For Dry Skin: Opt for oil-based formulas or Eau de Parfum concentrations, which are more potent and long-lasting. Florals, ambers, and musks tend to wear better on dry skin.
For Sensitive Skin: Look for clean, minimal-ingredient perfumes with natural oils and low alcohol content. Niche or eco-conscious brands often cater to sensitive skin without sacrificing character.
Esmé said: “This technique enhances longevity and allows you to build a scent profile that feels uniquely yours. For example, layering a warm vanilla-based perfume with a subtle floral mist can create a
balanced, signature blend.”
And the pro says always test perfume directly on your skin, not just on a blotter strip, and wear it for several hours to observe how the scent evolves.
She added: “What starts as citrus might settle into something entirely different by evening. This is where a perfume subscription becomes useful, offering a chance to sample travel-size versions of high-end scents before committing to a full bottle. “
