EVER wondered what Thailand might have looked like in the ‘90s, years before the first selfie was snapped or before travel influencers descended in droves?
When I landed on the shores of Koh Yao Yai this August, I got a first hand glimpse.
Just 20 minutes away from Phuket’s tourist-choked roads and party-hopping beaches, this peaceful little paradise in the heart of Thailand’s Phang Nga Bay feels frozen in time – almost as if it’s
veiled by a ‘90s sepia-toned filter.
Life moves slowly here, carried by the chorus of tropical
cicadas and the gentle lull of the sea.
Meaning “big long island,” Koh Yao Yai drifts in relative anonymity between Phuket and Krabi.
The afternoon I arrived on the island by speedboat, I wandered along the empty stretch of Loh Pared Beach, feeling a bit like young Leonardo DiCaprio in The Beach, eyes wide as he stumbled upon a deserted Maya Bay for the first time.
Ironically, today, Maya Bay remains packed with tourists, while this secret spot, just two ferries away, brims with the kind of charm that time forgot.
What To Do in Koh Yao Yai
Enjoy Sidecar Rides Along Phang Nga Bay
One of the best things to do on the island is hit the roads on a 110cc scooter and drift aimlessly through its fishing villages.
I loved drinking in the sights of island life as they whizzed past: water buffalos wallowing in muddy fields, sparkling sea views layered with limestone karsts, and stilt-propped homes in shades of pink, and blue.
Many hotels and local motorbike operators rent scooters for as little as £6 (฿300) a day.
You can also hire a vintage-style scooter with a sidecar – a fun way to get around these parts – if you fancy a romantic twist to your island holiday.
Take a Batik Painting Class By The Sea
Across the hill from Klong Hia Pier, a local batik shop offers a relaxing afternoon escape from the island’s heat-hazed beaches.
When I visited Batik De Ko Yao, the instructor Lai led me to a bench overlooking the sea and guided me through the basics of batik painting.
The entire process, from tracing the design with molten wax to brushing it with vibrant dyes, was surprisingly meditative.
Once done, Lai dyed and proofed the piece before packing it up for me to take home.
One of the activities to do whilst on the island is batik painting[/caption]
Explore Crowd-Free Beaches
The beaches of Koh Yao Yai are starkly empty save for ghost crabs scuttling in and out of flint-coloured sand, or the occasional longtail boat with locals out fishing.
Especially worth visiting is Laem Haad beach, where the tide retreats beyond the shore each morning, revealing a serpentine sandbar that’s fun to walk across.
From there, you can spot the island’s smaller sibling, Koh Yao Noi.
In the evenings, watch the sun smear the skies in orange-pink hues at Loh Pared Beach, a soft white-sand cove on the island’s western end.
Another excellent spot is the Klong Son beach, where I arrived after braving a rocky road flanked by rubber trees.
The sun was blazing, the water warm, and although I craved a cold
drink, I was pleased to see that there were no shops or shacks lining the beach.
Many of the beaches of Koh Yao Yai are empty of people, but still have ghost crabs scuttling about[/caption]
Take a Mangrove Tour
The island’s mangrove routes are perfect for relaxed and low-impact activities like kayaking.
Local guides lead you through canopied mangrove forests and sunlit lagoons in southern Koh Yao Yai, where you can spot a variety of indigenous wildlife – from mudskippers and tree snakes to monitor lizards and tropical birds – as you kayak through the waters.
Where To Eat and Drink
Koh Yao Yai is home to a predominantly Muslim population, which means bars and booze shops are rare – but not impossible to find.
Small, family-run shacks also dot the island, serving fragrant Massaman and Panang curries with rice, spicy salads, and Thai specialties for as little as £3 to £4 per plate, or under £20 for a meal for two.
One local favourite is Isaan Fine1, which has a bar menu serving cheap Thai beers like Singha, Leo, and Chang’s for just £3 a pop.
While you’re here, make sure to fill up on pad thai, drunken noodles, and fresh Thai salads, too.
There are many good foodie spots but cocktails are a bit pricier than elsewhere[/caption]
Another spot to enjoy drinks, grub, and music after a day out is Gypsy, a rustic island-style shack on the far end of Loh Pared Beach.
Sink your toes into the sand while you enjoy a cold beer or a mojito for just under £5.
For a more elevated experience with bay views, head over to the Jetinn Sunset at Pier at the Santhiya Resort.
Open from 5p.m to 7 p.m. daily, this overwater bar offers a lively sundowner vibe with panoramic views of Phang Nga Bay.
Cocktails are a bit pricier than elsewhere, but the vibe and views more than make up for it.
Where To Stay
If you don’t mind the splurge, lavish retreats like the Santhiya Koh Yao Yai and Anantara Koh Yao Yai offer idyllic sea-view villas and suites from £140 and £275 per night.
For a more laidback stay, the Thiwson Beach Resort offers rustic bungalows overlooking the sea from just £70 a night.
A short walk away, the Better View Resort has sea view rooms for £84 a night.
The island has both lavish and affordable retreats[/caption]
If you prefer to keep it simple and stretch your stay, budget-friendly options like the Koh Yao Beach Front are excellent.
Located steps away from the Laem Haad beach sandbar, you can rent breezy bamboo huts here for as little as £27 a night.
Tucked further inland, the Patcharin Homestay and Bahnwalee offer clean wooden cottages between £20-£30 a night.
Wherever you stay, Koh Yao Yai presents a glimpse of Thailand as it once was: unhurried, unfiltered, and magical.
If you are still looking for holidays in Thailand, then you could go kayaking, hiking, have cooking classes and zip-line in the Thai city that is top place to visit next year.
Plus, the Thai island Brits have no idea exists that is like going back in time – and loved by famous footballer.
For example, you can rent bamboo huts for as little as £27 a night[/caption]
