“EVERYONE comes here looking for vampires” says Sebastian, our dark-haired, pale-skinned guide to Romania’s top tourist trap, Bran Castle.
“But I’ve worked here for over 200 years, and I still haven’t seen one.”
As a lifelong fan of the Dracula myth and movies, this weekend trip in the Carpathian Mountains is bucket-list stuff[/caption]
After a three-hour flight, I pick up my car for a wild weekend: a rugged new Dacia Duster 4×4[/caption]
As a lifelong fan of the Dracula myth and movies, this weekend trip tying in the Count’s creepy gaff and staying deep in the Carpathian Mountains is bucket-list stuff.
Throw in the chance to watch grizzlies in the wild and that makes it a must.
I fly cheap and cheerfully with easyJet from Luton to Brasov — yes, I’d never heard of it either, which makes it feel quite exotic.
After a three-hour flight, I pick up my car for a wild weekend: a rugged new Dacia Duster 4×4.
Not only is it purpose-built for Romania’s winding mountain roads and off-the-beaten-track adventures like I had plotted on my satnav, it’s also budget-friendly and a proud local brand.
Dacias are literally everywhere in Romania, so I blend right in.
First stop is the legendary Bran Castle, which, while inextricably linked with the Dracula story, has its own terrifying legacy. Although there is no hard, historical proof Vlad the Impaler — Bram Stoker’s partial inspiration for Count Dracula — ever lived here, the fortress’ familiar gothic towers, hidden passages, creaking wooden staircases, brooding battlements and outrageously bloody history are enough to conjure any horror fan’s imagination.
Bear-watching
With the buzz around last year’s Nosferatu film remake — shot in Romania — the castle’s chilling vibe feels alive and well.
It’s easy to see how such a foreboding landscape became the birthplace of one of fiction’s most enduring monsters.
Leaving the castle seemingly unscathed, I wind my way to Villa Hermani, near the village of Mahura, which is my base for the weekend.
Tucked away in a valley in the middle of the Piatra Craiului National Park this traditionally appointed eco-sensitive guesthouse, run by hosts Katrina and Herman, is just the ticket.
Mornings begin with a tranquil coffee on the terrace, a buffet breakfast and 360- degree views of the mist lifting slowly to reveal pine forests, small holdings and an insta-perfect old white church accompanied by the zen-like sound of cowbells.
Sustainability is clearly more than just a label here — solar power, locally-sourced home-cooked food and a genuine sense of respect for the natural environment make it an inspiring and restorative spot to stay.
Step out of the front door and there are trails and adventures across the forest for keen walkers and explorers including an epic 25km hike around King’s Rock that’s strictly for the experienced. But the true highlight comes in the form of an evening bear-watching excursion accompanied by a sullen, rifle-packing wildlife guide.
He is the quiet type. Utterly silent in fact. Presumably very busy scouting for bears as we make a small but stunning hike from where we park our cars to a secluded wooden forest hide where we wait in silence.
Guesthouse host Katrina also came with, a bear-and-wildlife expert who speaks excellent English and is a fount of knowledge on all things Romanian and wild. “I came for the wolves, but I stayed for the bears” she tells me, and is now a leader in the Carpathian Large Carnivore Project to save them.
As dusk falls, a female Carpathian Brown Bear emerges from the trees — majestic, powerful, and completely unaware of our presence.
Later, a mother with two playful cubs approaches but keeps their distance from the other big bear.
In the end we are rewarded with a staggering 12 bears in the space of two hours.
Seeing these creatures roam free in their natural habitat is both thrilling and humbling.
Zărnești in Brașov[/caption]
The traditional Romanian food at the villa does not disappoint[/caption]
Romania is home to the largest brown bear population in Europe, if you’re not including Russia, estimated at around 6,000 today.
It also harbours 3,500 wild wolves, remnants of what once roamed across the continent. But their number is in notable decline.
While conservationists fight to protect the bears, random clashes with people highlight the fragile balance between preservation and protection.
Returning from our walk with an appetite, the traditional Romanian food at the villa does not disappoint — heart- warming fodder including ciorbă (sour soup), sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls) and mamaliga (a creamy polenta) served with rustic cheese and sour cream.
Desserts such as papanasi, fried doughnuts filled with soft cheese and topped with sour cherry jam are perfect, accompanied by some home-made herbal liquor, after such a memorable brush with Transylvania’s wild side.
Driving through the twisty Transylvanian countryside and quiet towns the next day is a delight — the only traffic issues being an occasional herd of cattle.
Traditional wooden houses, haystacks and horse-drawn carts become common sights, as are the roadside bakeries offering covrigi (Romanian pretzels).
The Carpathians are more than just a gothic backdrop — they are alive with history, culture, and a fragile but resilient natural world.
You don’t have to do all the driving either — villa owners Katrina and Herman offer tailor-made bargain adventure packages and will do the driving for you.
Romania is home to the largest brown bear population in Europe[/caption]
GO: TRANSYLVANIA
GETTING THERE: easyJet flies to Brasov from Luton with fares from £110 return. See easyjet.com.
STAYING THERE: A two-night stay at Villa Hermani, including breakfasts and dinners, costs from £256pp, based on two sharing. Includes Bran Castle and bear-watching trips and return airport transfer from Brasov. See cntours.eu.
OUT & ABOUT: Three days’ Dacia Duster car hire from £187 with enterprise.co.uk.
