counter I revisited my birth town which is now a ‘foodie capital’ – home to Britain’s smallest pub & most beautiful Greggs – Forsething

I revisited my birth town which is now a ‘foodie capital’ – home to Britain’s smallest pub & most beautiful Greggs

STANDING outside a little wooden hut in the middle of Bury St Edmunds’ cattle ­market, my dad hands me a ham and cheese roll.

Crusty bread, a massive lump of cheddar, thick slices of meat and far too much butter.

Chefs preparing food in a kitchen.
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Staff at Bellota prepare a feast which wouldn’t be out of place among Michelin-star eateries[/caption]

People on a foodie tour of Bury St Edmunds.
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Our guide Stephen Moody puts me to shame by unleashing a torrent of info I never knew[/caption]

I munch the glorious snack as the cattle auctioneer rattles off bids at speed, like Eminem on acid.

And I can still taste that roll — a memory of the culinary delights my birth town offered decades ago.

And now I’ve returned to discover why it is dubbed the foodie capital of Suffolk.

The cattle market may be a distant memory but it’s been replaced with a vibrant centre boasting incredible food and drink hotspots.

Before eating our way around Bury, my wife and I stop at Giffords Hall Vineyard.

This incredible gem, set on an ancient glacial riverbed in the ­Suffolk countryside, is a superb advert for English wines.

The all-knowing Gary takes us around the 19-acre plot and gives a brilliant in-depth history of the ­business, which has been growing beautifully — like its pinot blanc and rondo grapes — since 2009.

The award-winning wines are ­sublime and go down far too easily as we sip among the giant stainless steel vats.

On to Bury and our foodie getaway HQ is the splendid Angel Hotel. Based at the historic town square, it overlooks the quaint Abbey Gardens.

Our stylish Signature Ivy room has a free-standing bathtub and great views.


And it’s not long before we are given a food and drink tour of the town.

Our guide Stephen Moody puts me to shame by unleashing a torrent of info I never knew.

He is Bury’s very own chatbot . . . but much better.

As he reveals nuggets of history about Edmund, the King of East Anglia, I gorge on sensational sausage rolls at the No5 Angel Hill, served by owner Charlie.

We’re then spoiled rotten at Procopio’s Pantry, whose famous cheese and chilli scones are to die for.

All that glorious grub is washed down with some fine ale at the Nethergate Shop & Tap Room.

On the way we pass The Nutshell, ­Britain’s smallest pub, and the town’s timber-beamed Greggs, surely ­Britain’s poshest.

Bury also boasts the fantastic Wine Cellar, Marimba chocolate shop and the amazing Adnams store, which I was hoping to get lost in had it not been for our dinner date at The Angel’s Vaults restaurant.

The Underground Supper club serves up an array of fantastic dishes, including turbot ceviche and a lovely lamb ragu with parmesan polenta.

But it’s the atmosphere that completes the experience.

And after stuffing our faces, we sampled some amazing cocktails in the bar upstairs.

Off the scale

The Giffords Hall Vineyard sign on a white brick wall above a picnic table with food and wine glasses.
Instagram/@giffordshallvineyard

Giffords Hall is an incredible gem, set on an ancient glacial riverbed in the Suffolk countryside, is a superb advert for English wines[/caption]

The Angel Hotel, Bury St Edmunds, covered in ivy.
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The splendid Angel Hotel is based at the historic town square and overlooks the quaint Abbey Gardens[/caption]

But the surprise highlight of the stay was dinner at Bellota.

This hidden gem is located just yards from an old pub I may or may not have stumbled out of a few times back in the day.

Chef Ruben and his wife, pastry chef Gabi, offer astonishing seven (£75) and eight-course (£85) tasting menus.

Guests sit around the open kitchen as the cooks craft a dining experience like no other.

Every dish was off the scale.

But special mention to the hake, squid ink and salsa verde, the Thai green curry ice cream and the roast sweet red pepper swamped in a magnificent manchego sauce.

The cosy proximity to other diners encourages you to chat with strangers — a delightful touch as everyone devours delicious dishes.

We’ve been fortunate enough to eat at great restaurants — including The Fat Duck, which was top of my bucket list.

Bellota wouldn’t be out of place among such Michelin-star eateries.

Speaking of which, our final venue is lunch at Suffolk’s only Michelin starred restaurant.

The phenomenal Pea Porridge lies tucked away, a short walk from the town centre. Unassuming from the outside, you’d be forgiven for dismissing it as a tea room at first glance.

But, boy oh boy, step inside and it’s easy to see why it scooped the sought-after Michelin crown. It’s cosy and unpretentious with sumptuous Moorish-inspired cuisine.

Starters of local venison and Earl Stonham wagyu koftas and tempura nero John Dory could easily sit as mains.

And braised rabbit and the Cornish brill leave us full to the brim but with our taste buds demanding more.

The owners, the lovely Jurga and head chef Justin, opened the little green doors in 2009.

You can see the pride on Jurga’s face as she talks about Pea Porridge.

It’s the same pride I have when talking about being a Bury boy, born and bred.

Mmmmmm. Bread.

I wonder if they do ham and cheese rolls here . . . 

GO: BURY ST EDMUNDS

STAYING THERE: Rooms at The Angel Hotel, Bury St Edmunds, start from £157 per night, B&B.

See theangel.co.uk or call 01284 714 007.

OUT & ABOUT: Food and drink tour from £25.

See burystedmundstourguides.org.

Tour and tasting at Giffords Hall Vineyard from £49pp including tasting and £5 off voucher for wine purchases, see giffordshall.co.uk or call 01284 830 799.

Restaurants: To book a meal at Bellota see bellotarestaurant.com or at Pea Porridge see peaporridge.co.uk.

MORE INFO: See burystedmundsandbeyond.co.uk

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